Ingredients

6 frenched lamb shanks (about 8 pounds); or 6 center-cut veal shanks (about 5 pounds); or 8 three-inch short ribs (about 5 pounds)

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon safflower oil

1 large onion, chopped (2 1/4 cups)

3 carrots, peeled and chopped (1 1/4 cups)

2 stalks celery, chopped (3/4 cup)

6 cloves garlic, minced (2 tablespoons)

2 tablespoons tomato paste

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce

1 bottle (750 ml) dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

2 dried bay leaves

9 sprigs thyme

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season meat with salt and pepper. Heat an 8-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed ovenproof pot over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil. Working in batches, brown meat on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes a batch, reducing heat if meat is browning too quickly. Transfer meat to a platter. Pour off fat and wipe pot clean.

Place pot over medium heat. Add remaining 3 tablespoons oil, onion, carrots, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to high; stir in tomato paste and cook 30 seconds, then add flour and cook, stirring, 30 seconds more. Add soy sauce and wine; bring to a boil. Add broth and herbs.

Return meat and accumulated juices to pot, bone-side up (if applicable). Bring to a boil, then cover and transfer to oven. Cook 1 hour, or 2 hours for lamb shanks. Remove lid; rearrange meat pieces on top of pot to bottom and cook until meat is very tender, about 1 hour more.

With tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer meat to platter. Strain liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on solids; if sauce is too thin, simmer in a saucepan until slightly thickened. Serve meat with sauce spooned over top.